“Venice, the most touristy place in the world, is still just completely magic to me.” – Frances Mayes

From one city beginning with a V to another and Venice is the part of the trip I was looking forward to the most. On Friday we managed to negotiate the Italian rail network and as Steven never serenaded me in Verona, the man behind me serenaded us both with his not so gentle snores. Looking out of the window watching the countryside and the towns and villages go by is always interesting when abroad. But nothing prepares you for the magic, when the land just disappears and becomes water with a metropolis floating on it and boats buzzing around like bees.

Well it wouldn’t be our holiday if we weren’t ripped off at some stage. Having literally set one foot outside the station a man in an official looking high vis porter jacket helped us with our cases onto a trolley and asked us if we wanted a water taxi. We assumed he was like all those officials at airports that help you get to the official taxis. Wrong. The taxi he took us too was official, but for taking our bags on a trolley for no more than 50 yards he demanded 10 euros. That can’t be official.

After unpacking we went on a 3 hour walking tour with a “free” gondola ride at the end. Marco took us around St Mark’s square, Doge’s Palace and it’s prison and armoury and the Basilica. It was worth every penny. Our guide was knowledgeable and had the most wonderful dry sense of humour. Of course Venice and Venetians had as many “firsts” and “originals” and “largest” as any other country – first machine gun, albeit so useless that that it killed its operators, first coffee house/tea room, the largest oil painting etc. I’m not sophisticated enough to appreciate a lot of art, but the paintings in the Doge’s Palace were magnificent. I think part of my appreciation was the skill of the guide with his explanations, maintaining my interest. Its reassuring to know that even masterpieces and revered artists aren’t perfect – what with the man with the left foot on the right leg, and the hand with six fingers on a painting in the Doge’s council chamber. After the gondola ride, we went to the top of the Campanile for 360 degree views of Venice. Our aching feet were relieved there was a lift to whisk us to the top.

As it is Saint Marco’s day on Tuesday, this is a long bank holiday weekend. If we thought it was busy Friday they are expecting 200,000 visitors this weekend. Saturday was supposed to be a day of rest and we only had plans to wander at leisure off the beaten track, away from the main sites. We had booked Shabbat lunch at BA Ghetto and our wander took us to a completely different part of Venice. It was no less crowded though. Lunch was wonderful and we can now add “Lasagne” to the list of Italian dishes we’ve consumed in Italy. Despite still getting our steps in, our aching feet were rejuvenated as it was all done at a far more leisurely pace.

It’s just as well that we were well rested during the day because the night was us V the midges. The midge repellent was useless – the room was so warm despite there being no heating, and the air conditioning doesn’t get switched on unless specific weather conditions are met. This is the law across Italy, but this is the only place it has been a problem because of the water. Steven was his most courteous but firm and we have a brand new room, larger with higher ceilings and a wooden floor so that it is much much cooler, and hopefully midge free.

Today was a tour to Murano and Burano. Almost a day of rest for the feet as this was done by boat. I didn’t realise that there were marshes/swamps in the middle of the lagoon I thought it was pure water between the islands. What do I know?! Whilst Murano glass is stunning and watching it being made is fascinating, the island of Burano has more going for it and is charming. Murano is very much just the factory and the glass galleries, which we’ve managed to resist . . . . so far. The afternoon was spent mooching at leisure although going to the Rialto bridge could never be described as “leisurely” – it must have half the visitors in Venice, some of whom are schlepping suitcases.

Our time in Venice has drawn to a close as tomorrow we leave for Florence. It is everything I hoped it would be. The history, the art, the canals and their bridges and of course the gondolas. By day it is heaving and full of visitors, but at night was considerably quieter. Whatever time of day, it has a unique magnetism that just keeps you out there, exploring and snapping.